Sea Bass & Sea Buckthorn Berry Dish

We’re going to make a lovely dish inspired by the Dutch coast. It’s based on three ingredients: Sea buckthorn berries, Sea bass & Oysters. We begin by picking these incredible berries also known as the northern lemon, they taste intensely sour and tart, much like lemon and passionfruit with a rich finish. We are then filleting a sea bass and use the loins for a rouleau. The bones we scrape and use for a delicious sea bass mousse. To bring everything together we’re making an oyster emulsion, puffed pearl barley, a sea buckthorn vinaigrette and sweet and sour cucumber.

Sea Buckthorn vinaigrette

Servings 40 dishes

Ingredients

  • 450 g sea buckthorn berries clean and sorted
  • 450 g cut celery
  • 150 g apple juice
  • 100 g ginger syrup
  • 150 g olive oil
  • 4 g salt
  • 0.5 g black pepper
  • 1 g star anise
  • 1.5 g xanthan gum

Instructions

  • Begin by picking and sorting the berries. Once sorted just be sure to give them a quick wash. If needed also remove any leaves or bugs and then let it drain for at least 5 minutes.
  • After that transfer 450 grams into a blender and also add the cut celery, the apple juice, the ginger syrup, the olive oil, the salt, the black pepper, the star anise and the xanthan gum.
  • Now blend it not till smooth, but just for a minute. You don’t want to crush the pits, this will result in a bitter vinaigrette.
  • Then pass it through a fine sieve and press it with a ladle to insure you don’t waste a single drop. Keep it covered in your fridge for later 

Now fillet a lovely sea bass. It’s best to watch the video on the right side of this page so see the full how to.

Keep all the parts cold in your fridge. For this dish I’m using the loin and trimmings. The belly, bones and skin we’ll use in another dish I’ll share in a couple of weeks.

Sea bass mousse / farce

Servings 20 dishes

Ingredients

  • the sea bass bones from before
  • fish trimmings from before
  • 50 g egg white
  • 20 g cold butter
  • 2 g salt
  • 90 g cold cream 35% fat

Instructions

  • Take the sea bass bones from before and scrape any fish off with a spoon. Now mix 100 grams of the scraped fish and fish trimmings with the egg white, the butter and the salt.
  • Blend it till smooth, just beware that the temperature doesn’t heat up too much from the friction. It needs to stay cold.
  • Once smooth while mixing add the cold cream and directly stop when it’s incorporated.
  • Now this is optional, but to bring it to the next level pass it through a very fine flour sieve. Just press it through with a spatula or a dough scraper.
  • Then drizzle some olive oil on a metal tray and spread it with a brush. Transfer the farce on the tray and level it with a pallet knife.
  • Now bake it in an oven at 120 °C (248 °F) for around 10 minutes. You need to be able to give it a light press. Then let it cool down in your fridge.
  • Once cold portion it with the desired cutter and keep it covered in your fridge for later.

Puffed pearl barley

Servings 30 dishes

Ingredients

  • pearl barley

Instructions

  • Season some boiling water with salt and boil a generous amount of pearl barley for around 25 minutes. You want to be sure it’s cooked all the way. Stir it every now and then to prevent it from burning.
  • When cooked drain it and directly rinse it well under running cold water. This prevents the pearls from sticking to each other later on.
  • After that drain it well before spreading it on a metal tray. Now dry it at 60 °C (140 °F). This takes a couple of hours, just be sure to mix it well in between.
  • Once dry heat up some frying oil till the temperature is 200 °C (392 °F). Then deep fry the dried pearl barley bit by bit. This will make them puff up and become super crispy. Just be careful, because the oil is super hot! When all the barley starts to float directly drain it to prevent it from turning bitter.
  • Now transfer it on a tray that’s lined with a kitchen paper and season it with salt. Then you can keep it dry and covered for a couple of days or even weeks. 

Oyster pieces & emulsion

Servings 20 dishes

Ingredients

The green oil

  • 10 g parsley leaves
  • 10 g dill
  • 10 g chervil
  • 150 g neutral oil I use sunflower or grape seed oil

The oysters

  • 12 oysters I use size number 3 oysters
  • 5 g lemon juice
  • 10 g sushi vinegar
  • 10 g egg white
  • 2 g salt
  • 125 g cold herb oil we just made

Instructions

The green oil

  • Pick enough leaves from flat parsley, dill and chervil. You need 10 grams from each herb, so in total 30 grams.
  • Then also add the neutral oil. Blend it till the temperature is 65 °C (149 °F). It will heat up from the friction. This can take a couple of minutes.
  • After that pour it on a super fine sieve or one that’s lined with a kitchen paper. Let it drain in your fridge to prevent it from chancing colour.

The oyster pieces & emulsion

  • Boil some numbers 3 oysters in salted water for 30 seconds. Directly cool them down in ice water for at least 2 minutes. 
  • Once cold open them up and portion the thick belly from the beard. Keep them oyster bellies submerged in the oyster liquid to prevent them from drying out. First pass the liquid through a fine sieve and keep the oysters submerged in your fridge for later. 
  • Now for the emulsion first drain the trimmings for at least 5 minutes.
  • Then weigh 40 grams into a blender and also add the lemon juice, the sushi vinegar, the egg white and the salt. Blend it till smooth, but don’t let it warm up.
  • Once smooth add the cold herb oil and blend it till fully emulsified. Then transfer it into a piping bottle and keep it in your fridge for later. 

Final prep

Ingredients

Instructions

  • First peel and portion it to the desired size and cut it with the same cutter as the farce. The seeds you can keep for another recipe, it’s great for a gazpacho!
  • Let the cucumber marinade in some sweet and sour for at least 1 hour. 
Seabass dish 13

How to finish the dish

Instructions

  • First portion the fish to the desired size with a long sharp knife. Remove the wrap and place them on a tray.
  • Then also portion the oysters in small cubes.
  • Now let’s start plating! Press the seabass in the puffed barley and place three pieces on a plate. Then place three of the marinated cucumber pieces in between and lay the farce on top.
  • Now add a dot of the oyster emulsion and press an oyster piece in the emulsion. Then decorate it with fine samphire, cut nasturtium leaves and finally a touch of trout eggs and dill leaf.
  • Now the dish is ready to be served and finished on the table with that incredible sea buckthorn vinaigrette! 

The pairing

Seabass dish 06

For this dish I choose a white wine from Apostelhoeve, a winery from the south of the Netherlands. This winery is Limburg’s oldest and one of the largest wine estates in the Netherlands. Although Dutch winemaking dates back to Roman times, it was revived at Apostelhoeve in 1970 by Hugo Hulst. The first harvest in 1973 produced 1,400 bottles; today, the estate produces over 180,000 bottles annually. Its location on the Louwberg, with gravel, marl, and loess soil, is ideal for growing grapes.

The Pinot Gris Barriques has aged for 6 months in new French oak barriques. It is a full-bodied, smooth wine with fruit notes as well as caramel, vanilla and toast. Click here for more information about the wine & winery.

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